1- Take your time. Fact: Making your own clothes takes patience. If you accept this fact and allow yourself plenty of time to complete a project you’re much more likely to enjoy the process than if you try to make something in a hurry. For example, don’t start making something in the morning that you intend to wear that very evening – it will most likely end in tears! (Yes, I am speaking from experience here…) You can’t always anticipate challenges you might face and I know that I am much more likely to make mistakes if I’m rushing something. Just take it one step at a time, take regular breaks for cups of tea and enjoy the process of watching your garment come together.
2- Always read the instructions thoroughly. It’s a good idea to read through the instructions completely before commencing your project to familiarise your self with the processes being used. But keep in mind that if some bits seem a bit confusing, they might make more sense as you start making the garment. If there are any terms used that you don’t understand, see if your pattern (or book) has a glossary section, or if all else fails, try a google search. It’s important to follow the instructions closely as most processes need to happen in a particular order so that your garment will come together properly, so don’t race ahead!
3- Sew a toile first. A toile (from the French word for cloth) is a test garment sewn in an inexpensive fabric to determine the fit and whether any changes need to be made. Use calico (unbleached cotton) or any other cheap fabric you can find. Just try to use a fabric that has a similar weight and handle to the fabric you intend to use for your final garment. This way you will get a better idea of how the garment will sit. When making a toile you don’t need to worry about finishing details like overlocking raw edges or adding buttons. You’re just making the raw bones of the garment to determine the fit. Try on your toile and note any areas that are too tight so you can add to the pattern in those sections and pin in areas that are too loose so you can take them in. Transfer any adjustments to your pattern before cutting it out in your good fabric. As far as I know, a toile is called a muslin in America. (American readers please feel free to correct me if I’m wrong!)
4- Make sure you have everything you need. It’s so frustrating to be happily sewing a new dress only to realise half way through that you don’t have a zip or the correct interfacing. Make sure you have enough fabric and all the other notions you need to finish your project. It’s also important to use a fabric that’s appropriate for the pattern you are using. Your pattern should specify the recommended fabric type or list a few examples of suitable fabrics. I really can’t overstate how important this is, particularly if your knowledge of fabrics and their properties is limited. If you use the wrong type of fabric, you might face needless challenges and end up disappointed with your garment. For example if you’re making something that recommends a stretch fabric, but you use a non-stretchy woven fabric, you might find if won’t fit and you won’t be able to pull the garment on.
5- Test your interfacing. Always test your interfacing by ironing a small piece to a section of fabric to see how it effects the fabric. Allow it to cool properly before handling it. How does it feel? Has it bubbled? Has it made the fabric too stiff? Or not stiff enough?
6- Prewash your fabric and interfacing. Some fabrics (especially cotton and viscose) shrink when washed so you always want to make sure it’s done its shrinking before you sew it up. Depending on my fabric and how much there is, I’ll either hand wash it in warm water and rinse in cold, or chuck it in the washing machine on a short, gentle, warm wash, cold rinse cycle. I use only a small amount of a gentle detergent. The change of temperature from a warm wash to a cold rinse helps bring about any shrinkage. Washing by hand also allows you to see it any colour runs from your fabric. I usually overlock the raw edges first so the fabrics don’t fray while being washed. It’s not uncommon for fabrics to contain chemicals such as formaldehyde (which is nasty stuff) – yet another good reason to prewash your fabrics before sewing them. The only fabrics I wouldn’t prewash are those that are dry clean only, such as silk dupion, which if washed, will lose it’s lovely crispness. When making something out of dry clean only fabrics, remember that the finished garment will be dry clean only. Once your fabric is dry, iron out the creases and fold it neatly until you’re ready to use it. I like to hand wash interfacings too because once (when I was quite new to making my own clothes) I made myself a casual jacket and when I washed it, the interfacing of the lapels shrunk, causing the fabric to bubble. I learned my lesson and now I always prewash my interfacings, hand washing them with warm water and rinsing in cool. Just make sure you don’t attempt to iron out any creases in your fusible interfacing or you’ll end up in a sticky mess!
7- Trim and press as you go. To create a well finished garment, you need to pay attention to all the details at each stage of the sewing process. This means finishing off seams properly, trimming loose threads and ironing each seam as you go. It only takes a little bit of extra effort and will give a far more professional look to your finished garment.
8- It’s okay to make mistakes. It really is, I promise. Everyone else makes mistakes, so don’t be discouraged if sometimes you do, too. I don’t know what I’d do without my trusty quick unpick! When you make a mistake, take a deep breath, unpick it and try again. If a mistake is making you all frazzled and stressed it might be a good idea to have a cup of tea and a bit of a break. Come back to it later with a fresh perspective and give it another go!
source angelaosborn.com.au
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